- ZamA buffing compound similar to rouge.
- Zinc LapA faceting lap for corundum.
- Zirconium OxideA polishing agent similar to cerium oxide.
Jewelry Know How
Monday, September 2, 2013
Jewelry Glossary - Z
Jewelry Glossary - Y
- Yellow OchreA solution that is painted on jewelry parts that need to be kept cool during soldering.
Jewelry Glossary - W
- Water-Soluble WaxWax used as a foundation for building a wax model for a piece of jewelry which will appear heavy or bulky but will actually be quite thin. The foundation wax is dissolved before the casting.
- Wax LapA lap coated with wax for polishing soft materials.
- Wax PenAn electric pen for making wax models that keeps the wax melted, to be released through a trigger tip.
- Wax PotElectric pot for keeping wax at the proper temperature for making models for casting.
- Wax WireRound wax wires of different gauges, which can be twisted and bent into designs for wax jewelry models.
- Wet Belt SanderComplete, ready-to-use sander for cabs and flats.
- Wet-or-Dry BeltsSilicon carbide sanding belts.
- Wheel CementA bonding agent for abrasive discs or polishing pads.
- White DiamondA fine tripoli polish.
- White OilA preferred cutting oil for slab saws.
- Winding JigMetal or hardwood jig with wire protrusions for winding filigree wire into intricate designs, which are then removed from the jig by a lifting plate.
- Wire SawAn iron, diamond-charged saw blade, straight rather than circular.
- Work HardenedMetal which has been worked gets increasingly harder, so that it must be annealed to maintain its workability.
Jewelry Glossary - V
- Vacuum CastingA system of casting with a machine which pulls air and gases from the mold so that molten metal will flow quickly.
- V-DopA dop stick with a "V" notch for elongated stones.
- VermeilGold-plated sterling silver.
- VernierAn auxiliary gauge for a millimeter slide gauge for determining gem depth; a secondary gauge to subdivide small units on the primary gauge.
- VibralapAutomatic flat lap for processing flats by vibrating.
- Vibratory TumblerRapidly vibrating tumbler with unusually upright hoppers, many of which are open.
- Vibro-GraverA vibrating electric engraving machine with adjustable stroke.
- ViseThe part of the saw that holds the rock being cut. It often has hardwood jaws.
Jewelry Glossary - U
- UltralapA plastic lap embedded with abrasive or polishing agents.
- Ultrasonic CleanersMachines filled with cleaning solution which vibrate at high frequencies.
- Ultrasonic DrillA high-tech, fast-vibrating drill with electronically supplied abrasives.
- UndercutThe property of some fibrous or granular gems to develop small pits during sanding and/or polishing.
- UniaxialStones with one optic axis.
Jewelry Glossary - T
- TableThe flat facet on the top of a faceted gem.
- TangThe end of a graver or file which fits into the handle.
- TankReservoir. The pan for holding the coolant/lubricat of a slab saw.
- TapsMetal taps with matching dies are used for threading items such as ear screws.
- TemplateSheets of plastic or metal with cutouts of various sizes and shapes of cabochons for outlining on stone.
- Tensile StrengthThe property of a metal to be stretched without tearing apart.
- Third HandA stand for holding items to be soldered.
- ThrummingBuffing inaccessible areas with a string or cord.
- Tiffany MountA prong setting for a faceted stone mounted on top of the ring shank, allowing more light.
- Tiger TailNylon-coated bead wire.
- Tin LapA soft metal lap used for faceting.
- Tin OxideA popular polishing powder.
- TitaniumLightweight refractory metal used for contemporary jewelry.
- Torpedo ClaspAlso barrel clasp. Metal parts screw together for a lock.
- ToughnessThe property of structural particles of a gem material to cling together to avoid breakage.
- Transfer BlockAlso transfer jig. The block which makes it possible to align dopsticks for transferring a gem being faceted.
- TranslucentGem material which transmits light but is not clear enough to see through.
- TransparentGem material in which the interior can easily be seen and which one can see through when it is held to the light.
- Tri-Color GoldJewelry made with three colors of gold -- yellow gold, rose gold, and green gold (usually).
- Tri-Cord KnotterA device for making quick, uniform knots in necklaces of pearls or other beads.
- TrilliantA modern, curved triangular brilliant cut, originally 44 facets.
- Trim SawAn electric saw for rough shaping of cabochon blanks from slabs of gem material.
- TripoliSilicon dioxide polishing powder.
- TrivetA metal stand used to hold work during the process of fusing (such as enamel) to metal.
- Troy WeightSystem of weight for precious metals. One troy ounce equals 1.10 avoirdupois ounces.
- TubingFormed by pulling a metal strip through a drawplate and used for hinges, clasps, and links.
- TufaPorous rock formed as a deposit from springs or streams.
- TumblerA rotary or vibratory machine which will produce finished stones from tumbling rough.
- Tumbler ChargesMeasured grits, powders, and sometimes additives used in the tumbling process.
Jewelry Glossary - S
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Needle-like crystals penetrating gem materials.
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A machine which forcefully blows out streams of grits of various hardnesses to abrade, texturize, etch, or carve gem materials.
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An old method of casting with wet casting sand being pressed firmly around the model making a mold for filling with molten metal.
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A disc or belted charged with abrasives which smooth the surfaces of stones, preparing them for polishing.
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The cloth belt or disc which is charged with abrasives for the sanding processes between the grinding and polishing steps.
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A smooth but not brilliant metal polish.
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The revolutions per minute and the surface feet per minute of a revolving saw blade.
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Oxidation of a metal surface caused by heat.
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A cabochon engraved with a variation of the ancient Egyptian sacred beetle design.
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A metallic-appearing shimmer or sheen seen in some gem materials.
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Cutting radial lines in soft metal faceting laps to prepare the lap for polishing large facets.
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Slatelike stones used with water for removing blemishes on a metal surface.
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A threaded metal bolt which feeds the material by turning to push the carriage of the slab saw forward.
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Sharp tools used to draw or trace designs on metal.
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Jewelry made with soldered scrolls of wire.
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Clay-like substance which air-hardens to a metallic mass similar to "liquid steel."
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A flannel jewelry polishing cloth, half charged with rouge.
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Indentical flattened "s" shaped links.
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An enamel technique with a design scribed through to expose previously fired layers.
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The steel rod upon which the revolving parts are mounted.
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Used to dop sensitive stones or to make abrasive tools.
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Hook-shaped earwires.
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Carborundum. A hard synthetic for grinding and sanding.
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Forming metal by pounding and stretching it into a hemispherical die.
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Mineral deposit in springs.
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A saw blade with diamond powder mixed with metal powder and made into a thin circle, which is then heat treated and soldered to the edge of a circular saw.
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A flat section or slice of rock.
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A saw which is designed to cut slabs or slices of rough material with a circulat diamond saw blade.
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A liquid for removing oil from slabs.
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The mixture of polishing powder and water used on a polishing buff.
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Quick, easy-set, commercial mountings.
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A stone less than 5 in hardness on the Mohs scale.
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A variety of alloys, mostly gold or silver, which when heated to the flowing point will permanently unite the chosen pieces of metal.
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Soldering is done on a fire-proof block such as charcoal, fire brick, or ceramic.
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Aggregates having characteristically smooth, often shiny, cleavage faces.
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The density of a mineral in comparison to that of water.
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A machine used to shape and polish spheres by the use of revolving cutters and various grits.
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A tapered, threaded tool to hold buffs.
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Forming metal by stretching it over a chuck using a lathe.
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The cover for a slab saw which prevents coolant mist from spraying into the room.
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A metal pan beneath the grinders and sanders to catch water.
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The metal hood above the grinding and sanding wheels designed to keep water from splashing into the room or onto the lapidary.
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A grooved, curved wooden machine for sanding cabochons.
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A ring-shaped jewelry clasp with a spring in the tube.
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That part of the wax model which reaches to the edge of the flask so that when it melts there will be a canal for the molten metal.
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Base for attaching the sprue to the model.
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Wax rod for making sprues which will burn out cleanly and quickly.
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Smooth steel forms for use in forming, raising, and planishing metals with hammers.
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Steel tools for stamping impressions into metal surfaces.
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Round 58 facet gem.
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Triangular facets next to the table.
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An inexpensive method of casting using steam pressure.
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Emerald cut. A basic facet design, usually rectangular or square, with rows of parallel facets.
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A standard of metal purity for silver with 75/1000 parts of copper to 925/1000 parts of fine silver.
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A movable pronged holder for inspecting faceted stones.
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Removing scale, old plating, or dull surface of metal by electrolysis.
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A block with various sizes of indentations to hold tubing for sawing and filing.
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Small needle files.
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